Sarah Mayland

Archive for the ‘Patterns’ Category

Instant Gratification I-Cord Necklace

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 05/07/2011 at 21:19

Mother’s day is tomorrow, and I’m dreadfully poor.  Thankfully, I found some lovely metallic gold yarn that I had laying around and decided to whip up a little something.

this is the completed necklace


  • one skein Adrienne Vittadini Francesca in Gold (please note that this yarn is now discontinued, but can be found in some places online — substitute any DK or light worsted weight yarn of your choice) (please note that you don’t need a whole skein for this — one skein will make quite a few necklaces)
  • two double-pointed needles (size 6)
  • two stitch markers
  • a tapestry needle

Gauge:  the gauge here is not really important

To make the necklace:

CO 4 sts.  Knit 1 row. When finishing the row DO NOT TURN the work.  Slide the stitches back to the other side of the double-pointed needle and knit the next row, always working on the Right Side.  Continue doing this until the I-Cord measures 32″.  Cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail in the tapestry needle and weave through the remaining stitches.  Pull to gather the stitches and fasted securely.

Measure 8″ from each end and place markers.  Use the tails at the end to sew the ends of the I-cord to the places that the markers are.  You should have two loops at the end of the cord.  Weave in ends and cut off the remainder of the tail.  Wear as shown above.

measure 8" from each end and place markers


Painted Earlap Stencil Tutorial

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 03/25/2011 at 15:10

And I’m back!  I’m on spring break at school, and spent most of this week working on English assignments.  But I did promise some tutorials, and today I’m going to show you how to stencil your earflap hat.  Thank you to all those on Ravelry who have left me such nice comments on the hat!

So let’s get started:

You will need a piece of posterboard approx 20×30″.  A standard piece that costs a dollar at the local drugstore will do just fine.  Make sure you don’t get something too thick because you need something that’s a little flexible, and you don’t want to be cutting this thing till you’re 92. 
You will also need and x-acto knife, utility knife, or box cutter, a pen or pencil to mark where to cut your squares as well as to draw the stencil, and a ruler or other straightedge.  These items are needed to make the stencil itself.  To paint the stencil you will need some straight pins (aka common pins)  acrylic paint in any color of your choice and a medium-sized flat-tip brush. 

These are some of the things you'll need to make your stencil

 The next thing to do is to cut your piece of posterboard into squares that are 6×6″.  Obviously you can make any size you choose, but I find that the 6″ squares are really good for an adult-sized hat.  A standard piece of posterboard should yield about 12 of these squares.

After you have cut your squares, the next thing you can do is to plan out your stencil design.  I actually drew mine first with black pen so I could make changes as needed without it showing up too much. When you have drawn the design that you want to use for your stencil, trace over it in a color that contrasts your posterboard, so that you don’t have to strain your eyes when you’re cutting the stencil out.  When designing your stencil, there are a few things to consider: straight lines are much easier to cut than curved lines, and large pieces are much easier to cut than small ones. A bunch of little circles (like I did in mine) are a HUGE pain in the neck. Trace over your design in a color that contrasts the posterboard. After your stencil is drawn up, you are ready to cut it out! Carefully cut out your design using your x-acto knife, utility knife, or box-cutter. It is best to cut along the outer edge of your lines so that more space can be filled by the paint. Don’t rush this part — you don’t want to mess up your stencil or hurt yourself! The stencil is now cut out and ready to paint!

A standard piece of posterboard should give you 12 6" squares

Now that your stencil is cut out, you are ready to paint.  If you are painting an earflap hat, I could recommend laying the hat flat and pinning the stencil down onto the hat.  If you are painting something without earflaps, you should be okay to put the hat on a styrofoam head and pin the stencil onto the hat while it’s on the head.  When you pin, make sure you pin some of the spaces in the middle of the stencil so that the stencil doesn’t pop up while you are painting and mess up your design.  Better to have too many pins than too few. 

Make sure you pin the stencil to the hat in several places to keep the stencil from slipping

Now we paint.  Put some acrylic paint (the kind to paint an artist’s canvas, not the craft acrylic that you can use to paint ceramics) on a plate.  The brush you use should be completely dry.  Don’t water your brush or the paint, as that will make it absorb into the yarn rather than stay on top of it and give you a nice, deep color.  Take your time and slowly paint in all the spaces in your stencil.  Let dry for a minute or two and do a second coat if you feel it’s necessary.  Un-pin the stencil and slowly peel it away from your hat. Let the paint dry overnight.  That’s longer than it needs to dry, but always better to be safe than sorry.  Once it is dry, you can put your hat in the washing machine, and the paint won’t come off.   (Please only machine wash if your hat is NOT made of a fiber that will felt!)
This is the finished hat. Give it a while to dry and don’t be afraid to machine-wash it!

I hope this tutorial helps!  Please leave me any comments here or on Ravelry if you have any questions or suggestions about how to make this tutorial better (it’s my first tutorial, so any suggestions are very very welcome!)  And please, if you try this, post pics on Ravelry, or email them to me at and I will post them if you would like.  I’m really interested to see everyone’s ideas. 

Newly Finished…

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 01/11/2011 at 19:24

Yes I know I have made futile promises in regards to new patterns, new items for my ETSY shop, and tutorials, and alas, I suck because I am prepared with none of the above.  But I have finished a couple things that I wanted to get out of the way before I started school yesterday.

I signed up for 4 classes this semester — 2 online and 2 traditional, and was surprised to find out that one of my online classes is an 8-week accelerated course, so be prepared to hear (or more appropriately, see) very little from me for a while (or at least for the next week until I get my Ritalin and can get my horrible ADD under control).

But, before this mayhem began, I managed to finish a sweater (in 5 days!) and make a dinosaur hat that had been promised to one of my friends for about 3 months. 

The sweater was the Leyfi Pullover designed by Romi Hill, Interweave Knits Fall 2010.  I LOVE this sweater, and chose to do  mine in black and white rather than green and white (actually it was my husband’s choice — he thinks I look great in black).  The yarn I used was Nashua Creative Focus, which I think is a really nice wool, and then used a standard cotton crochet thread doubled with it. 

Leyfi Pullover

Please excuse the ridiculously horrible photo quality, as one of my friends took this picture with her iPhone.  My one complaint about my choice of color combo is that it’s really difficult to see the lace pattern — and the lace pattern is gorgeous.  I think I will definitely make this again.  It was an easy, quick project, and quite a pleasure to make.

My second adventure was to make a dinosaur hat for my friend that works at the store next-door to mine at the mall.  For the hat base, I used my Ridiculously Easy Beanie pattern (as I always do for hat bases…because it’s so ridiculously easy).  For the spikes on top of the head, I knit a diamond shape, casting on 3 sts, increasing 2 sts every other row by picking up a loop from the row below it until I had 15 sts, and then decreasing 2 sts every other row and binding off when I had 3 sts again.  The were worked in stockinette stitch, so every knit row was increased or decreased and the wrong-side rows were purled.  I sewed the middle of the spike down flat against the hat base, and then folded the sides of the spike up and sewed them together.  I think it turned out really well, and my friend certainly liked it.
I will get more fun stuff up here for everyone to do as soon as I can.  I really want to open my ETSY  store ASAP, and I’m still throwing around a lot of ideas for what exactly is going to be in there.  Wish me luck.  In the meantime, I wish you all happy crafting and I will be back soon.  Time to study!!

Ridiculously Easy Felted Cloche

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 12/03/2010 at 02:39

This is yet another variation on my Ridiculously Easy Beanie  pattern.  This is the same shape as the un-felted cloche, but this one is felted (hence the name). 

Acrylic and other synthetic yarns will not felt.  Use a trusty wool.  I have not tried to felt alpaca, but I’m sure it works too.  You need a lot of agitation and some soap to make an object felt.  Everyone does things differently, but I find that I get the best results when I throw the piece in a washing machine on hot or warm water, fast spin cycle, and put a towel in with it so it has something to rub up against.  I prefer to have no stitch definition whatsoever after the felting is done, so I sometimes have to run it in the machine for 2 or 3 wash cycles.  Also, your piece will shrink a good bit when you felt (to about 2/3 of its original size).  So for any felted project, ch stitch or cast on 1 1/2 the number of stitches that it should actually be so that when it felts it will be its normal size.

The felted cloche is a really great piece to wear in the winter.  It is very soft and strong, and unbelieveably warm.  Also, because it is felted you can cut out shapes without the yarn coming unraveled.  I would recommend washing it one more time after you cut it so the edges are felted all the way through.

To make the Cloche”

Materials: 1 Skein Paton’s Classic Wool in color of choice (or any other worsted weight 100% wool) ACRYLIC/WOOL BLENDS WILL NOT FELT!! (I learned this the hard way), Size H Crochet Hook

ch 90 sts, join to form a ring.
sc 1 st in each chain st, continuing in the round
work 23 more rows (rounds — when I say rows I mean rounds) even
row 25: sc 14 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x around the hat
row 26: work even
row 27: sc 13 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x around the hat
row 28: sc 12 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 29: work even
row 30: sc 11 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 31: sc 10 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 32: sc 9 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 33: work even
row 34: sc 8 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 35: sc 7 sts, skip 1 st. repeat 6x.
row 36: sc 6 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 37: sc 5 sts, skip 1 st. repeat 6x.
row 38: word even
row 39: sc 4 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 40: sc 3 sts, skip 1 st. repeat 6x.
row 41: sc 2 sts, skip 1 st.  repeat 6x.
row 42: sc in every other st.

repeat row 42 until hat is closed.  knot the yarn, and cut off.

for the brim:

starting at the bottom of the hat, sc 1 st in every original ch st.
brim row 1: sc 1 st in first 14 sts.  2 sc in next st.  repeat 6x.
brim row 2: work even
brim row 3: work even
brim row 4: sc 1 st in first 11 sts.  2 sc in next st.  repeat 8x.
brim rows 5-8: work even.

fasten off. 
don’t bother weaving in your ends because you are going to felt the  hat so you can just cut off the ends afterwards without fear of unraveling.  don’t cut the ends off before you felt or your hat might come unstitched in the wash.

throw it in the washing machine a few times until felted as desired.

This is the front of the cloche

on my hat, i cut the shape into a point at the nape of the neck — not triangular but kind of curved.  using the scrap felt, i cut out a circle as big as i could get, and put it at the end of the point, and sewed a big button on top.  do whatever tickles your fancy.

This is a view of the cloche from the side

This is the back of the cloche

This is the detail of the back of the cloche

Pattern — Ridiculously Easy Earflap Hat

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 11/14/2010 at 19:06

This is another variation on my Ridiculously Easy Beanie, which you will need to use as your base to complete this hat.

The earflaps are SUPER-RIDICULOUSLY easy.  This is a great project for a beginner, and the magic comes in the embellishments.

This is my earflap hat. I embellished with some acrylic paint in a stencilled design.

To make the hat:
ch 66, connect to form a large ring.
continue steps in Ridiculously Easy Beanie pattern to make the base of your hat.

For the Earflaps:
Start at the bottom of the hat (your original ch sts) where you connected to join the first row. 
row 1: sc 16 sts (1 st in each ch st on foundation row). ch 1, turn.
row 2: sk 1st st, sc 1 st in each of next 15 sc.  ch 1, turn.
row 3: sk 1st st, sc 1 st in each of next 14 sc.  ch 1, turn

continue in this fashion, skipping the first st of each row, until there is one stitch left.  cut the yarn, leaving a long enough end to weave in, and pull the yarn through the last st to fasten off. 

make another earflap on the other side of the hat.

assuming that you used 66 stitches for your beanie, and are making the earflaps 16 sts wide, there should be a space of 17 sts between the earflaps. 

embellish as you like. (and post pics on ravelry please!)

also, please note that some curling on the earflaps is normal, and is supposed to be there.  if you don’t like the curl, something i found helps with that is to crochet trip around the entire hat after the earflaps are on there (it’s super-cute if done in a contrasting color). make sure you sc 3 sts in the point of the earflap

Have fun!!

*For a tutorial on how to make the stencil and paint the hat, please go here.

Ridiculously Easy Cloche and Double-Brim Cloche

In Patterns on 11/06/2010 at 15:01

My friend Sam, whose blog can be found at (where there is, I might add, a killer pattern for a newsboy cap) requested that I post my cloche pattern.  Thank goodness for her — gets my ass back in gear. 

So I have for you a 2-in-1 pattern:  A simple cloche, and, if you’re  feeling more ambitious, a double-brimmed cloche.

For Both Cloches:

Start off by making The Ridiculously Easy Beanie using the pattern that I posted a little while ago.  The beanie shouldn’t use more than a skien of Vanna’s Choice, and you should have plenty of yarn left to make a brim or two.

Starting at the bottom of the hat, where you original chain row is, sc in each st.  This will be your foundation row for your brim(s).

*please note that all sc sts here are worked through BOTH loops of the previous row unless otherwise noted.

Single Brim Only:

this is an example of one of my single-brim cloches

From your foundation row, sc  9 sts, 2sc in next st.  continue to do this  around the row.  (note: the math won’t work out perfectly on this — i.e. you will probably have about 6 or 7 repeats plus an extra couple stitches.  that’s okay…we’re not picky here.) this is row 2.

Row 3: sc 1 st in every stitch from the previous row.
Row 4: sc 8 sts, 2sc in next st.  continue to do this around the row.
Rows 5&6: sc 1 st in every stitch from the previous row.
Cut your yarn and leave a long enough tail to weave in.  Weave in your ends, and embellish the hat as you like.  In the above hat shown, I made a flower out of some layers of green fabric. 
Double-Brim Cloche:

this is an example of one of my double-brim cloches

Work the first brim as you did for the single brim cloche, but  work in ONLY THE FRONT LOOP of the sts on the foundation row.  The back loops will serve as the grounding for your 2nd brim.
For the 2nd brim, work rows 2-6 as you did for the first brim, but this time in the back loops of the foundation row instead of the front loops. 
row 7: sc 7 sts, 2sc in next st.
rows 8&9: work even
cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.  again, embellish as you like.  in the red hat above, I just wrapped the crown in black tulle.

A Quick Word of Thanks…

In Knitting/Crocheting, Miscellaneous, Patterns on 09/07/2010 at 08:37

Hi All!

I can’t tell you how excited I am about looking on my Ravelry page and seeing how many of you have added my patterns to your favorites.  And a few of you have left comments that have been simply beautiful, and I would like to extend a humble word of thanks to all of you for your kindness and support.  I have been designing my own pieces for years, but have never written any of them down or shared them with a community, and it’s very encouraging to know that you like what I’m creating.

I see that all of my patterns have made it into several queues.  They’re all pretty quick to make, and great stash-busting projects, so I would love to see how the projects turn out for you.  As I said before, being new to the pattern-writing process, I welcome all comments and suggestions for how I can make the patterns better and easier to read.

Thank you all again for your kind words and support.  I can’t wait to see the finished projects!


Easy Cable Dropstitch Cowl

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 09/04/2010 at 08:34

This pattern is for a bit more of a drapey cowl, and uses exactly one skein of Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick.  Gauge is not too important…approx 2 sts and 3 rows per inch. Size 17 needles, have a tapestry needle for sewing the seam.

 Cable Pattern:

 Row 1, 3, 5 (RS): p1, *k6, p1; repeat from * twice more
Row 2, 4, 6 (WS): k1, *p6, k1; repeat from * twice more
Row 7: p1, *slip next three sts off of needle and hold in back of work, k next 3 sts, put the 3 sts in back of work on the needle and k those sts, p1; repeat from * twice more

 To make the cowl:

CO 22 sts.
Work rows 1-7 of Cable Pattern.
Work row 2-7 nine times
Work row 2-6.
BO loosely, dropping the two p sts in between the cables.  Assist the yarn in laddering down to the CO row.

 Using tapestry needle and remaining yarn, use mattress stitch to sew the CO edge and the BO edge together.  Weave in ends and block and necessary.

Button-Up Neckwarmer

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 09/04/2010 at 07:01

Free pattern #2!!  As you read this, please keep in mind that I have not written a knitting pattern before, so if you find any errors that I have over-looked, please don’t hesitate to leave me a note in the comments section or on Ravelry. More photos of what this looks like being worn are at the bottom of the post. 

This is the finished piece shown flat...i chose to work the border in seed stitch rather than garter stitch.


Gauge/Measurement:  2 sts and 3 rows per inch. finished piece measures 13″ wide and 18″ long. 

1 skein of any super-bulky weight yarn of your choice…100 yards should be plenty.
size 17 needles
3 buttons, 1.75″ (4.5 cm) in diameter
sewing thread to match yarn, sewing  needle
tapestry needle to weave in ends. 

A note about the  pattern — the neckwarmer is knit with a garter stitch border, and 3 6×6 cables with reverse stockinette between each cable and the garter stitch border.  The first 3 and last 3 stitches of each row are worked in garter stitch, as well as six rows of garter stitch at the beginning and the end. 

Cable Pattern: 

Rows 1, 3,5 (RS): k3 border sts, p1, k6, p1, k6, p1, k6, p1, k3 border sts
row 2 (and all WS rows): k3 border sts, k1, p6, k1, p6, k1, p6, k1, k3 border sts.
row 7: k3 border sts, *p1, slip next 3 sts off of needle and let them hang to the back of the work. k3 sts from needle.  put the stitches from the back onto the needle and k them.  repeat from * twice more. p1, k3 border sts. 

To make the neckwarmer: 

CO 28 sts
rows 1 & 2:  knit.
row 3: k6, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2tog, k6
rows 4-6: knit. 

work rows 1-7 of cable pattern once, and then rows 2-7 four times.
work rows 2-6 of cable pattern. 

k 6 rows, BO loosely.
sew buttons on the garter stitch border on the RS of the work, making sure they line up with the buttonholes made at the other end of the border. 

Ridiculously Easy Beanie

In Knitting/Crocheting, Patterns on 08/28/2010 at 18:55

This is a free pattern!  Yay!  (who says nothing’s free these days?!)  This is the first pattern I have ever written, so if there is something that is unclear, or doesn’t make sense, please post in comments or send me a message on Ravelry and let me know.  Thanks!

Ridiculously Easy Beanie*: 

The pattern that I will give is for a SOLID-COLORED hat.  You can add your own color work as you choose.  If you check out my projects on Ravelry, you can see it’s easy to make these in horizontal stripes.  Vertical stripes can be done simply by carrying the yarn behind.  These are crocheted in the round so the hat is seamless.

This hat will fit an average-sized adult’s head (approx 22″ circumference).  I find this size fits my head as well as an average man’s head.

Materials:  1 skein vanna’s choice solids, or any worsted-weight yarn of your choice.  Size H crochet hook (5.0 mm), tapestry needle for weaving in your ends.

Gauge:  very flexible.  i’m a somewhat loose crocheter, and i get 3-4 sts to an inch.  the hat is supposed to fit very close to the head and stretch, so it’s okay if it’s a little tighter.

To make the hat:
chain (ch) 66 sts. join to form a ring, being careful not to twist sts.
round 1: single crochet (sc) 1 st in the top loop of each ch st.
round 2: sc through BOTH loops of the sc  sts on the previous row. (note: all sc’s from here on out will be done in this fashion.)

repeat round 2 until hat is desired length (should be 16-18 rows.)

to close off for the  crown of the hat:
round 1: *sc 10, skip (sk) 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 2: *sc 9, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 3: work even
round 4: *sc 8, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 5: *sc 7, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 6: work even
round 7: *sc 6, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 8: *sc 5, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 9: *sc 4, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 10: work even
round 11: *sc 3, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 12: *sc 2, sk 1; repeat from * 6 times
round 13: sc in every other st.

continue round 13 until hat is completely closed off.  Cut yarn, leaving a long enough tail to weave in, and pull yarn end through last loop on hook.  Pull tight to secure.  Weave in ends and block if you think you need to (I never block my hats).

*I don’t mind if you sell the hats that you make using my pattern, but please cite the source.  Fair enough, right? Thanks!